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US crochet terms:
SlSt – slip stitch
CH/s – chain/s
SC - single crochet
DC - double crochet
SK - skip
T - turn
ST/s - stitch(es)
REP - repeat
YO – yarn over

Material: 

Papatya Angora Merino Yarn

• 100 g / 550 m (100 g / 601 yards)
• 20% merino wool + 80% acrylic

Yarn Requirements for Women's Size S/M:

• 1 skein = for a vest / short-sleeved cardigan
• 2 skeins = for a longer / long-sleeved cardigan, or a cardigan longer than waist-length

Size: Women's S/M

Hook: 4.0 mm

Other Materials: Scissors, tapestry needle, stitch markers

Construction: From Yoke to Waist

The cardigan consists of these parts: YOKE, BODY, SLEEVES ARE CROCHETED IN A LACE PATTERN.

• The pattern below is prepared for a women's size S/M.
• The sweater/cardigan has a classic fit, designed to be worn over a t-shirt or top. The size can be easily adjusted for smaller or larger sizes, for both children and adults, by simply modifying the number of stitches and rows. Recommendations on how to adjust the sweater can be found in the instructions below.

• The cardigan is crocheted as a simple, classic, waist-length sweater for year-round wear, making it a timeless wardrobe piece.
• It's crocheted top-down, allowing you to try it on as you go and adjust the size accordingly.
• The pattern uses single crochet and double crochet stitches, which create a fluffy lace pattern. The pattern is formed by repeating 4 rows.

Adjusting Size and Design

• In the pattern below, I've chosen a classic, waist-length fit. However, if you prefer a more fitted style, you can crochet a smaller size, and if you want an oversized look, simply crochet a larger size! You can also easily adjust the cardigan's length by crocheting more rows in the "body" section.
• I crocheted my cardigan using one solid color of yarn, but feel free to use self-striping yarns or make your cardigan multi-colored as you wish.

Crocheting Notes

• 1 chain (ch) at the beginning of a row does NOT count as a stitch. Always work the first stitch into the first stitch of the previous row.
• 3 chains (ch) at the beginning of a row DO count as a double crochet (dc) stitch.
• The cardigan is crocheted in rows, with continuous increases at the V-neckline.
• The sleeves are crocheted in closed rounds, meaning each round is joined with a slip stitch (sl st) after completion.
• The number in brackets [ ] in the pattern indicates the total stitch count at the end of that row

Cardigan Sections

YOKE:

Start with a chain long enough for a comfortable neckline. Then, work in rows, gradually widening the V-neckline on the front panels. Turn your work after completing each row. The yoke gradually expands every 4 rows by 2 stitch groups on the "shoulder" sections and on the "back panel."

On the front panels, increase by 1 stitch group after every 4 rows, always adding one stitch at the beginning (2 dc into 1st st) and at the end of the row (2 dc into last st).

Each yoke row begins and ends on one of the front panels.

The front panels expand to form a comfortable V-neckline.

CARDIGAN BODY: Divide the yoke to create the armholes, then simply crochet downwards in rows without further increases. Use the same lace pattern as for the yoke.

SLEEVES: Attach yarn at the underarm on each side of the cardigan body. Crochet the sleeves in the same lace pattern in continuous rounds. You can crochet straight sleeves, flared sleeves, or gradually decrease towards the wrist.

To adjust the length of the cardigan body or sleeves, simply repeat the last rows until you're happy with the length.

TIE STRINGS: Crochet the tie strings directly into the front when working the single crochet border. I crocheted just a chain and then single crocheted into each chain (1 sc into 1 ch).

Shaping Tips: Raglan Shaping: For raglan sweaters, pay close attention to the increase rows to ensure the correct yoke shape and proper armhole size. Use stitch markers to clearly mark the corners that separate each section.

Trying On As You Go (Top-Down Crocheting): As mentioned in the pattern, if you're crocheting the sweater top-down, take advantage of the ability to try it on as you work. This allows you to adjust the body and sleeve lengths to your preferences.

Tips and Recommendations:

Sizing and Fit Tips

Measuring as You Go: Since lace patterns, especially with some cotton yarns, can stretch significantly when crocheted loosely, lay your work flat and measure it regularly. This ensures you maintain the intended size as you progress.

Planning for "Ease": Sweater patterns typically incorporate "ease," which is the difference between the finished garment's measurements and your body measurements. Decide how much ease you prefer (fitted, classic, relaxed, oversized) and adjust the size accordingly to ensure your sweater fits well and meets your expectations.

Lace Pattern Consistency & Even Tension: Maintaining even tension throughout your project is crucial for a neat and well-defined lace pattern. Try to keep your yarn tension consistent and your stitches uniform.

Joining Rounds/Turning Rows: Pay close attention to how the pattern instructs you to join rounds or turn rows. Consistently follow the same method for joining rounds and for turning at the end of each row. This will create uniform, clean lines in your finished sweater.

Construction: From Yoke to Waist

• This sweater is crocheted top-down in a raglan style with a rectangular yoke.
• One of my favorite things about top-down crocheted sweaters is that you can try them on as you go and adjust the size to fit your style perfectly.
• For example, if you find the underarm area a bit snug after finishing the yoke, you can simply add a few more plain rows to the yoke (without increases) before splitting for the sleeves and body.
• And if you want to shorten or lengthen the sweater, you can just subtract or add rows until you're happy with the length! The same applies to the sleeves.
• This type of raglan construction is also suitable for beginners looking to try out new techniques.

Special Techniques

What is a Cluster?

A cluster is essentially a group of unfinished stitches that are joined into a single top at the end.

Unlike a decrease (e.g., dc2tog, where two stitches converge into one point and reduce the stitch count), a cluster adds texture and volume and is typically crocheted into a single stitch or space.

How to Crochet a 2 Double Crochet Cluster (2DC-Cluster)

• Yarn over (YO) (yarn over hook).
• Insert your hook into the designated stitch or space.
• YO and pull yarn through the stitch – you now have 3 loops on your hook.
• YO and pull yarn through 2 loops on your hook – you now have 2 loops on your hook. You've just made your first incomplete double crochet.
• YO.
• Insert your hook into the same stitch or space where you made the first stitch.
• YO and pull yarn through the stitch – you now have 4 loops on your hook.
• YO and pull yarn through 2 loops on your hook – you now have 3 loops on your hook. You now have two incomplete double crochet stitches on your hook, both originating from the same spot.
• YO and pull yarn through all three loops on your hook.

Result: You've crocheted a "puff" cluster made of two double crochet stitches that share the same base and the same top. This creates a beautiful, raised texture.

For even more crochet patterns, check out my e-book.

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