CUTE AMIGURUMI SEA TURTLE is a great project for summer holiday. 

You can use CROCHET CUTE SEA TURTLE as a gift as well as for Summer decor.
Have fun making SEA TURTLE. 

Are you looking for a classic crochet AMIGURUMI SEA TURTLE pattern? This is a great option. It is an amazing and free pattern for a really wonderful and colorful SEA TURTLE that has a great colorful shell and cute crochet eyes.  

The CROCHET AMIGURUMI SEA TURTLE is the perfect project for advanced beginners crocheting and I am excited to share with you the pattern.

The written pattern is available here below for free. It comes with a video guide as well.

VIDEO TUTORIAL
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You know me, I love making homemade things and creating beautiful gifts for my family and my friends. I also love doing my own crochet Amigurumi. If you do as well, you may would love to try these patterns as well:

How to crochet SEA TURTLE Amigurumi

This pattern is made for advanced beginners. If you don't understand any of my instructions, don't worry I am here for you - enter the comments at the end of this post.

This SEA TURTLE is an adorable Amigurumi Toy, simple and quick to crochet, a great project for advanced beginners. 

This SEA TURTLE will give your own little one lots of fun at playtime. 

CROCHET SEA TURTLE AMIGURUMI MATERIALS

Amigurumi Cotton Yarn, the color you like for:

Head, Legs, Tail - ping / beige color (color A)

Shell / Shield - any 3 colors you like, dark violet (B), light violet (C), blue (color D)

Shell / Stomach - light violet (C)

Eyes - white (E), dark blue (F)

The pattern was made with YarnArt Jeans and Terezka Yarn, Amigurumi Cotton Yarn:
Jeans: 1 Skein / Ball 55% Cotton 45% Acrylic Sport (12 wpi) yarn, 50g, 160 m
Terezka: 100 % cotton, 50g, 155 m

3 mm crochet hook

Scissors

Stuffings

Sewing/Embroidery and yarn needle/tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends

Markers

Pins

Optionally 8 mm plastic safety eyes - 2 pieces

Difficulty Level: Level 1 – Easy, for beginners

US crochet terms:
SlSt – slip stitch
CH/s – chain/s
SC - single crochet
DS - double crochet
SK - skip
T - turn
ST/s - stitch(es)
REP – repeat

SC2TOG = 2 single crochets together

Special stitches used:

Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog)

A crochet decrease makes the current row or round that you are working on shorter than the one previous to it.

1.  Insert hook into the first stitch.

2.  Yarn over and draw through the loop.

3.  Do not complete the stitch as normal.

4.  Instead, insert the hook into the next stitch.

5.  Yarn over and draw through the loop.

6.  There should now be three loops on your hook

7.  Yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook

8.  You should now have two single crochet stitches side-by-side, joined together into one stitch at the top.

This pattern requires familiarity with stitches used, attaching yarn, changing yarn colors, sewing parts together with a sewing needle.

CROCHET SEA TURTLE AMIGURUMI PATTERN NOTES

1) A ch1 at beg of the row DOESN'T count as a stitch

2) Magic ring = the starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.

3) Continuous rounds - HEAD, SHELL SHIELD, SHELL STOMACH, LEGS AND TAIL parts are worked up in continuous rounds, which means that you will not be joining the last stitch of the round with the first one. Instead you will need to keep track of where each round started and how many stitches you have made because after each round you will continue right on to the stitches of the next round (with no join). It is useful to use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to mark the start or end of each round.

4) ( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round/row are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s/row’s instructions.

5) This SEA TURTLE AMIGURUMI measures: 

21 cm / 8 inch tall
16 cm / 6.5. wide

6) You can make the SEA TURTLE AMIGURUMI bigger with a thicker yarn or a larger hook size.

7) There is just minimal sewing, you will only sew the eyes, the legs, the tail and the head into the shell / body - this is quick and easy to do, there are no tricks.

CROCHET SEA TURTLE AMIGURUMI 
THE WRITTEN PATTERN

THE HEAD

Colour A

Ch1 at the beginning of round don't count as a stitch.

This part is worked in spiral rounds, without joining rounds. Do not join rounds.

Make a magic ring

R1 – R9 = increase rounds
work in continues rounds

R1: ch1, 6sc in magic ring (6sc)

R2: *2sc in each sc around* rep from * to * till end of round (12 sc)

R3: *1sc in next st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (18 sc)

R4: *1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (24 sc)

R5: *1sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (30 sc)

R6: 1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 4st, 2sc in next st* rep from * to * till 2 st left, place 1sc in last 2 st (36 sc)

R7: *1sc in next 5st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (42 sc)

R8: 1sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 6st, 2sc in next st* rep from * to * till 3 st left, place 1sc in last 3 st (48 sc)

R9 - R14: 1 sc in each st around (48 sc)

For version with plastic eyes - add safety eyes size 8-10 mm between row 9 and 10, skip 6 stitches apart.

R15: 1sc in next 3st, sc2tog *1sc in next 6st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till 3 st left, place 1sc in last 3 st (42 sc)

R16: *1sc in next 5st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (36 sc)

R17: 1sc in next 2st, sc2tog *1sc in next 4st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till 2 st left, place 1sc in last 2 st (30 sc)

R18: *1sc in next 3st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (24 sc)

Stuff the body well.

R19: *1sc in next 2st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (18 sc)

R20: *1sc in each st around next st* rep from * to * till end of round (18 sc)

Stuff more if needed before finishing round R20

Cut yarn colour A and fasten off and wave all ends in.

STUFFING 

The exact moment for starting filling and stuffing the toy depends on every single person. I prefer filling the toy with the work almost finished. It’s a bit more difficult to fill, but more comfortable to crochet. You should make proofs until finding the more suitable moment of filling for you.

THE EYES

Colour E and F

Ch1 at the beginning of round don't count as a stitch.

This part is worked in spiral rounds, without joining rounds. Do not join rounds.

Make a magic ring

R1: color F
ch1, 6sc in magic ring (6sc)

R2: color E
*2sc in each sc around* rep from * to * till last st, work last st as 1dc placed in magic ring (11 sc + 1dc)

invisible join

Cut the yarn E and leave a longer tail for sewing on the HEAD later.
Cut the yarn F and fasten off.

Repeat the pattern for the second EYE.

THE FRONT LEGS 

Colour A

Ch1 at the beginning of round don't count as a stitch.

This part is worked in spiral rounds, without joining rounds. Do not join rounds.

Make a magic ring

R1 – R9 = increase rounds

R1: ch1, 6sc in magic ring (6sc)

R2: *2sc in each sc from R1 around* rep from * to * till end of round (12 sc)

R3: *1sc in next st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (18 sc)

R4: *1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (24 sc)

R5: *1sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (30 sc)

R6: 1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 4st, 2sc in next st* rep from * to * till 2 st left, place 1sc in last 2 st (36 sc)

R7: *1sc in next 5st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (42 sc)

R8: 1sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 6st, 2sc in next st* rep from * to * till 3 st left, place 1sc in last 3 st (48 sc)

R9: *1sc in next 7st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (54 sc)

Fold in half, make a half circle. The wrong side is inside. 

Stuff the leg gently.

Crochet 2 sides with slip stitches together.

Cut the yarn A and leave a longer tail for sewing on the body later.

Repeat the pattern for the second FRONT LEG.

THE BACK LEGS 

Colour A

Ch1 at the beginning of round don't count as a stitch.

This part is worked in spiral rounds, without joining rounds. Do not join rounds.

Make a magic ring

R1 – R9 = increase rounds

R1: ch1, 6sc in magic ring (6sc)

R2: *2sc in each sc from R1 around* rep from * to * till end of round (12 sc)

R3: *1sc in next st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (18 sc)

R4: *1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (24 sc)

R5: *1sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (30 sc)

R6: 1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 4st, 2sc in next st* rep from * to * till 2 st left, place 1sc in last 2 st (36 sc)

R7: *1sc in next 5st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (42 sc)

Fold in half, make a half circle. The wrong side is inside. 

Stuff the leg gently.

Crochet 2 sides with slip stitches together.

Cut the yarn A and leave a longer tail for sewing on the body later.

Repeat the pattern for the second LEG.

THE TAIL

Colour A

Ch1 at the beginning of round don't count as a stitch.

This part is worked in spiral rounds, without joining rounds. Do not join rounds.

Make a magic ring

R1 – R3 = increase rounds

R1: ch1, 3sc in magic ring (3 sc)

R2: *2sc in each sc from R1 around* rep from * to * till end of round (6 sc)

R3: *1sc in next st, 2sc in next st * rep from * to * till end of round (9 sc)

R4 - R8: 1sc in each st around (9 sc)

Cut the yarn A and leave a longer tail for sewing on the body later.

THE SHELL SHIELD 

Colour B

Ch1 at the beginning of round don't count as a stitch.

This part is worked in spiral rounds, without joining rounds. Do not join rounds.

Make a magic ring

R1 – R4 = increase rounds

R1: color B
ch3 (1dc), 1dc in magic ring, ch1 *2dc in magic ring, ch1* rep 5 times from * to * join the round with a sl st in 3rd ch from beg (6 times: 2dc + ch1) 

R2: color C
sl st in next 2st to move in chsp, ch3 (1dc), 1dc in ch1sp, ch1, 2dc in same ch1sp, in each ch1sp around work *2dc, ch1, 2dc* rep from * to * till end of round (6 times: 2dc + ch1 + 2dc)

R3: color C
sl st in next 2st to move in chsp, ch3(1dc), 6dc in ch1sp, in each ch1sp around work *7dc* rep from * to * till end of round (7dc in each ch1sp)

R4: color D
ch1, *1sc in next 7 st, 1dc in next st one row below (R3) * rep from * to * till end of round (6 groups of 7sc+1dc)

R5: color B
ch1, 1sc in each st around (48 sc)

R6: color B
work in continues rounds
*1sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st* rep from * to * till end of round (60 sc)

R7 - R8: color B
work in continues rounds
1sc in each st around (60 sc)

R9: color B
work in continues rounds
*1sc in next 5st, 2sc in next st* rep from * to * till end of round (70 sc)

R10: color D
work in continues rounds
1sc in each st around (70 sc)

R11: color D
work in continues rounds
work in front loop only
1sc in each st FLO around till last 10 st left (60 sc)

The last 10 stitches is where the head is going to be – so don’t work into those stitches

R11 = join HEAD on SHELL SHIELD
continue with working yarn color D, place 1sc in next 10 st, join HEAD st to st
1sc in last st, cut yarn colour D finish round with invisible join. Fasten off and wave the ends in.

​SHELL STOMACH

color B

R1: work in all stitches from R11 in SHELL SHIELD, work in back loop only / BLO and also work into stitches from R20 in HEAD 

ch1, 1sc in next 5st, ch7, sk 7, 1sc in next 10st, ch5, sk 5, 1sc in next 4st, ch3, sk 2, 1sc in next 4st, ch5, sk 5, 1sc in next 10st, ch7, sk 7, 1sc in next 6st

Join SHELL STOMACH with HEAD: finish with 1sc placed in each unjoined st on HEAD last round: 7 sc (HEAD R20)

R2: color C
ch1, 1sc in each st around and in each chain space (5 + 7 + 10 + 5 + 4 + 2 + 4 + 5 + 10 + 7 + 6 + 7) = 72

ch1. 1sc in next 5st, 7sc in ch7sp, 1sc in next 10st, 5sc in ch5sp, 1sc in next 4st, 2sc in ch3sp, 1sc in next 4st, 5sc in ch5sp, 1sc in next 10 st, 7sc in ch7sp, 1sc in next 6st, 1sc in next 7st 

R3: decrease by 6 st  
R3: *1sc in next 10st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (66 sc)

R4: *1sc in next 9st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (60 sc)

R5: *1sc in next 8st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (54 sc)

Join legs and tail in the holes we made in round R1 – front legs in chain 7 spaces, back legs in chain 5 spaces, tail in chain 3 space.

R6: *1sc in next 7st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (48 sc)

R7: *1sc in next 6st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (42 sc)

R8: *1sc in next 5st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (36 sc)

R9: *1sc in next 4st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (30 sc)

R10: *1sc in next 3st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (24 sc)

R11: *1sc in next 2st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (18 sc)

R12: *1sc in next 1st, sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (12 sc)

R13: *sc2tog* rep from * to * till end of round (6 sc)

R14: sew all 6 st together

Cut yarn colour B and fasten off and wave all ends in.

FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS

Make sure the head and the shell is stuffed well before sewing, but not so firm that you can see the stuffing through the stitches. Work around the entire round.

Start joining HEAD on the top of the shell and make sure the center of the head is aligned with the shell. 

Sew the EYES onto the HEAD (R4-R8), 6 stitches apart.

Sew the FRONT and BACK LEGS on sides of the SHELL in the holes we made in round R1 – front legs in chain 7 spaces, back legs in chain 5 spaces, 

Sew the TAIL on the back of the SHELL in the holes we made in round R1 - tail in chain 3 space.

And voila! You made a CUTE LITTLE SEA TURLE TOY!

This cute little CROCHET SEA TURLE TOY will a perfect holiday toy - and could be a perfect gift for your love ones. The SEA TURTLE will surely bring smile to all your recipient’s faces.

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